New York Fashion Week is approaching. And if you’ve been in previous seasons, take a look at this calendar and remember how busy you used to be. Some of the highlights are obvious — Tom Ford, anyone?Here’s a roundup of his five labels and designers to watch over the coming week.
Maisie Wylen
Maisie Schloss has come up with a pretty genius way to create her latest Maisie Wilen prints: feed an AI image generator with about 20 of the most diverse ones she can imagine. DALL-E“I put in a lot of very abstract prompts and stock images to get some weird textures as a starting point,” she says with a laugh. “They were all insane. For example, lip gloss, dark shadowed spaces, etc. The more abstract and bizarre, the better. That’s how you get the most ridiculous amorphous extracts.” .”
Schloss’ design process is fully digital. She mainly uses her Photoshop and Illustrator. Also in keeping with the “hyper-digital aesthetic” of her collection, she plans to mimic her screens in the downtown exhibition space Performance Her New York show set. She draws inspiration from her CGI and special effects techniques, which is why some models even have markers. Lord of the Ring“
First known for her featherweight jersey designs favored by the Kardashian-Jenners, Maisie Wilen has become more relevant to the digital realm. Schloss plans to expand her make-your-own clothing line both online and on her IRL. For the latter, her products include evening her dresses and menswear. “People our age and younger came up with fashion, and the media in general on the Internet,” she says. is difficult to understand.”
Bad Vinci Ton Ton
For Terrence Zhou, Bad Binch Tong Tong is all about authenticity. “I think it was trend Or the one I uploaded with one of my progress pics from today,” he says, clearly amused. “My studio is very messy with lots of flies. The photo they used shows an electric racket they use to hit the flies on the table.” I have never been afraid. And many versions of myself have existed over the years. Born in Wuhan, China, Zhou, who danced nationally, moved to the United States at age 17 to pursue a degree in mathematics and science. When he was an intern at a bioengineering tech startup in San Francisco, he realized he would miss art, so he transferred to Parsons College (graduating in 2020) and converted his bedroom into his design studio. rice field.
Zhou’s past work was all related to his previous career path, so the only designer he’s ever worked with is himself. But Bad Binch Tong Tong’s brand can never be inferred from the level of craftsmanship and development of his identity. His work is instantly recognizable and often sculptural. The most avant-garde ones are made of found materials. Zhou names Jeff Koons and his Louise Bourgeois when discussing his goal of making people rethink and improve everyday items like inflatables. And names like her Rina Sawayama, who represented the label on her one of her album covers, have been spotlighted. Neither does the press, even though Zhou has never done marketing or outreach. His team recently looked at how many Bad Binch Tong Tong designs have appeared on the covers of publications and came up with about 75. This isn’t bad for a brand that just didn’t have the resources he needed to put on a runway show a year ago.
Zhou’s label’s first show will be in the form of a dance performance (which he is considering attending). Many people have asked why he chose “Bad Binch Tong Tong” instead of “Terrence Zhou” during the preparation stage. Answer: Tong is his real name.
Foo and Foo
When asked about inspiration, most designers are vaguely poetic, but Elizabeth Hilfiger is refreshingly candid. “My inspiration this season is that I really can’t handle the heat,” she says en route to New York from Los Angeles, where her warehouse studio is. Just be a raging bitch.” Hilfiger enlisted wearable tech brand Techniche to turn cooling workwear, usually designed for construction workers and Olympians, into high fashion. If you question the effectiveness of the material, Hilfiger also offers his Foo and Foo brand ice packs.
It’s no coincidence that the Who and Who logo is ubiquitous in Hilfiger designs. As you may have guessed by now, her father is none other than Tommy Hilfiger. (Actually, she joked that she was waiting for me to ask about him. When I did, before an apology. Only ten minutes after our call. Where’s the logo?” she laughs. “I was consulted by a friend a few seasons ago and she said no, don’t put it there, you don’t need it. but not to mention something the industry veteran never thought to show.With the Lower East Side’s sprawling master kitchen range, Hilfiger calls the brand’s current iteration “fun, cool.” Think of the move as a little bit naughty and considered “practical basics”.
Plus, in doubling up as her post-lockdown comeback, Hilfiger is taking a risk: Not all looks are clearly branded. It’s like
Wiederhoft
For Jackson Wiederhoft, fashion and dance, especially ballet, go hand in hand. For the avoidance of doubt, even seeing one of his designs guarantees that the label bearing his name has nothing to do with the so-called “ballet core.” CFDA/trend The Fashion Fund finalist’s next show (which, like past seasons, incorporates dance performances) will be part of the industry’s introduction to the brand.
Wiederhoeft is a self-proclaimed introvert who loves to surround herself with extroverts, so it’s no surprise that she’s been dressing up as comedians like Chloe Feynman and Rachel Sennot these days. If his success with that particular audience continues at this rate, with the help of CFDA mentor Bergdorf his Goodman Linda Fargo, comedy his scenes are about to look very different. . For Wiederhoeft, Spring 2023 is all metal. There is so much in this collection that he estimates that one of his skirts weighs 40 pounds on him.
The win at CFDA has caused Wiederhoft to reconsider whether he will be competing this season. He’s more ambitious than ever, increasing the number of looks in his collection from 16 to 26. Although his designs are quite different from those of Thom Browne, they share the same perception of theatricality and production values that left him “boring” when he worked as a designer. ‘s latest work embraces these qualities more than ever before.
gauntlet chain
Gauntlett Cheng The underground New York design scene really felt three years away from the calendar. Now Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng are back and ready to move up to 11. From the beginning when the label was known as Moses Gauntlett Cheng, designing with Vaquera’s girlfriend David Moses, the brand has been the pair’s passion project. When I first spoke with them a few years ago, Gauntlet worked for Aesop and Chen knitted for brands like Calvin Klein. These days, the former is in charge of finance at an architecture firm, and the latter is his project manager for gallery David Zwirner. They may technically be designing on the side, but Gauntlett Cheng is so popular that they actually make money from the brand.
In many ways, it’s a new era for Gauntlett Cheng. They have more energy than ever before. Especially now as we move forward with plans to ignore the fall season. “We were never happy with the clothes. The show was always a disaster,” says Gauntlett. “Clothes always reflect our moods. Looking back, wait, all the fall shows were so depressing and all the spring shows were so festive and fun. And they I asked myself, what do I want to make and what am I good at making?” Two years into his exclusive partnership with SSENSE, and as Cheng points out, all of the items SSENSE stocks are also handcrafted, and the pair is doing just fine. Now they are “totally” against it. Appearance, regardless of cost, he may incorporate, for example, 8 yards of fabric.