Knitwear: The work-from-home lifestyle has broadened and evolved this category, but it’s a category and way of dressing that long predates the pandemic.
“Knitwear is dynamic. It can be feminine and sensual, or it can be classic and timeless,” says designer Jill Mendel of the Saks Fifth Avenue Le Chalet set, J. Mendel. Said at knitwear’s debut presentation. Elsewhere, the knitwear designer proposes optimism through color and a modern, cozy head-to-toe layer through old and new techniques and handicrafts. Here, WWD spotlights special moments in a growing category throughout New York Fashion Week.
sustainable glamor
J. Mendel Knitwear Fall 2022
courtesy
A return to glitz and dressing up was seen all over New York’s spring runways. Fabrication made in Italy (the line was noted to be 70% sustainable).
punk craft
Judy Turner Fall 2022
George Chincey/WWD
Conley Averett, who staged Judy Turner’s presentation at Michael’s in Midtown, said, “This is definitely one side of my fantasy. Averett is a knitwear designer for Khaite, but his own designs are more tribal and punk. Highlights include a mesh dress and skirt, an irregular checkerboard-patterned shrink cardigan, and a red floral crochet flower scarf worn like a corsage.
pursuit of color
Zankov, Autumn 2022
courtesy
Knitwear specialist Henry Zankov has carved out a niche in the category with a new label bearing his name. For fall, the designer proposes graphical and visual optimism through biased styles for men, women, and gender. Designers also explored new categories in tailoring, leisure and outerwear.
craftsmanship
The Elder Statesman, Fall 2022
Courtesy of Elder Politicians
The Elder Statesman spirit is rooted in fine handcraft. This autumn collection evokes fisherman’s nets in organic cotton and cashmere, as well as incorporating patchwork and handwoven techniques throughout his prêt-à-porter and home goods, collaging Jamaican and British collages by his artist and painter Chione. Featuring carefully selected artwork by Grandison.
cool cable
PH5, Fall 2022
Courtesy of PH5
PH5’s signature sculptural wavy hem silhouette is updated for fall with a cable knit. Both color and fabric blocking come into play, offering a youthful sensibility along with the brand’s extensive selection of highly technical and textured knits in playful shapes.