Westtown bakery with a European approach – NBC Chicago


Chicago has several new bakeries, each offering something unique. According to NBC 5’s Food Guy Steve Dolinsky, one of them has a very European approach.

Publican Quality Bread recently moved to a large new space where they host an all-day gluten fiesta.

Every bakery is busy in the morning, but Publican is in a corner of West Town with a few tables outside and a focus on baking bread.

“We make a lot of bread. We’re currently making 18,000 pounds of dough a week,” says head baker Greg Wade.

Wade oversees everything from mixing to molding and, of course, baking.

“All of us are locally farmed, sourdough or naturally leavened breads featuring whole grains. That means honey and oat porridge, multigrain, 100% rye.” he said.

Coming out of a huge oven like a soldier ready for battle, the bread has a crisp, firm crust with a soft, supple interior and lots of open crumb structure.

Coffee and espresso are also available, and pair well with orange-flavoured Kouign Amann and flaky dough layered with almond paste and chocolate.

Wade’s philosophy is simple.

“It’s familiar, identifiable, but uplifting,” he explained.

Like tarts stuffed with heirloom tomatoes, or open-faced tarts stuffed with spring peas and onions, or earthy mushrooms and cheese.Think heritage cornmeal Denmark.

“A buttery danish, amplified by corn but with a wonderful cream cheese filling and seedling farm blueberries.”

The rhythm of the bakery stands out. Specifically, the European approach.

“That means a good amount of pastries coming out at 7am, and even more in the morning. At 10 a.m. we start preparing delicious food like tartines and big sandwiches,” he said.

Big is an understatement.

Tell them how much you want to cut and pay by the ounce. On this day, the bread was smeared with oregano mayonnaise and layered with pickled green tomatoes, roasted summer squash, smoked turkey, chipotle kumquat sauce, and served with Cotiya his cheese and arugula. A light appetite should come later in the day.

“Around 1:00 p.m., I start making Hamombourg sandwiches, which are very good ham, butter and cheese sandwiches on a few minutes old baguette,” said Wade.

When you take the bread home, slice it up, put it in a ziplock bag and freeze it, suggests Dolinsky. Toast as soon as you are ready to eat.

You can go here:

publican quality bread

1759 W. Grand Ave.

Daily 7am-3pm



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