Photo: Courtesy of the Committee.Charlie Engman; Darien Diciano/BFA.com; Greg Kessler
This season marks the return of in-person shows for the first time since the pandemic began. This meant that many of New York’s biggest designers, such as Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, and Thom Browne, were not running shows. But it has allowed young fashion darlings like Peter Doe, Telfer and Ekhaus Ratta to take center stage. Here’s what I found interesting from the week of the show.
Ekhaus Ratta’s 10th anniversary show.
Eckhaus Latta — the work of Rhodes Island School of Design graduates Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta — held its 10th anniversary show on Saturday night during New York Fashion Week. As usual. Modeled by familiar faces such as Hari Nef, Paloma Elsesser and Susan Cianciolo, the new collection shows how much designers have developed significant forms such as daring denim and knits, often darning and padding. Includes handcrafted details such as chiwork. Autumn items are more special. Wear jeans that are essentially just seams and bleached yarn panels, a plain and beautiful gray pullover with two darned panels and flashes of matt gold and fuchsia, scrap and darned jeans. — Cathy Hollin
Photo: Cathy Hollin
Last season, instead of the show, Telfar Clemens held a press conference to announce Telfar TV. His two-hour event of rambling felt more like a performance of his art than a press, so when Telfar once again planned to do something on his TV channel, I became wary. rice field. But he surprised everyone with a funny and bizarre event that included a slew of new clothes and accessories, and a glimpse into Telfer TV’s manic energy. Some news reports referred to the night as “The Happening”. Pictures of the Pier 17 scene suggest so, but it wasn’t. There were long, daunting moments of rhetoric, and little reaction from the audience. Still, the fresh streetwear and Telfer his sense of community made it worth the experience. —CH
Photo: Courtesy of the Committee
Fashion week always makes me want to shop, but often what’s on the runway is more theatrical or actually surreal than what the average person would want to wear on the street. It feels far removed from reality in the sense that it is subjective. Of course, this is mostly by design, but I was happy to visit the Garment District showroom of Commission, a small label founded in 2018 by Dylan Cao, Huy Luong and Jin Kay. This was evidenced by the fact that everyone I was with wanted to try on. The Fuzzy Muppets-like mohair sweater, for example, was a hit with the brand last season, but it’s back again for fall in colors like bright blue, bright blush, and pumpkin orange. Everyone wanted to wear a jacket with a built-in vest. This season’s collection was very ‘urban cowboy’ with models wearing denim, boots and bolo ties. However, the way Commission’s clothes are styled (oversized, layered) feels cool and casual, exactly how I would like it to look. — Emilia Petrarca
Peter Doe bag.
Photo: Greg Kessler for Peter Do
On the final day of New York Fashion Week, up-and-coming fashion star Peter Doe unveiled his second collection. This was considered by many to be one of his best collections of the season. His suit was impeccably thoughtful, beautifully flowing, but his bag was the center of attention. There was a double saddlebag joined in a back holster style and a macro crossbody sling bag in luscious leather. To be exact, it’s a shoulder bag holster. — Vivian Chuan
Photo: Leandro Usten
From zig-zag parts to dip-dyed pigtails, this season was full of ’90s-2000s beauty trends, but none was as inspiring as Christian Siriano’s frizzy hair. One look at hairstylist John Layman’s sophisticated handiwork makes him hot before the school dance. The scent of simple time was felt immediately. — Erica Smith
Photo by Jason Crowley/BFA.com/Colrina Strada
On the last day of NYFW, Collina Strada, the colorful and sustainable brand I looked forward to each week, acquired the Angelica Film Center.Instead of traditional shows, the brand Colinas, starring Tommy Dorfman as he heads to New York City for an internship opportunity at the label.I’ve never seen hillthe impersonation was fun and enjoyable, and I loved watching it play out in the historic theater. — Brooke Lamantia
Photo: Darien Diciano/BFA.com
Tia Adeola kicked off fashion week with a love letter to her hometown of Lagos.The entire show was an ode to black culture and what I liked most was her structured hair, braids embracing bamboo earrings emblazoned with the words bossSeeing this as the first show of the season made me feel right at home — a show that celebrates black culture, with black beauty on the runway for black models. I’ve also missed my braids, so I’ve already scheduled my next one. — Asia Milia Ware
Photo: Bryan Bedder/Getty Images for IMG Fashion
On Sunday, when I took my seat at the In the Blk showcase, I noticed the lights were flashing and a small crowd had formed across from me. I stood up to find out who was causing the ruckus, but it was none other than Mayor Eric Adams. I didn’t think he was such a fashionable person. —BL
Photo: Rodin Banica for Dan/Corina Rekka
No Sesso’s return to NYFW was an ode to black abundance and femininity. Filled with nostalgia, the mostly denim collection featured long acrylic bustiers that matched corsets, gowns, and very high updos reminiscent of the 90s. did. — Chinea Rodriguez